Monday, March 13, 2017

Pros and Cons of Living in Suva, Fiji

In anticipation of our impending bid season, I'm doing a little 'pay it forward' to other bidders out there by describing some pros and cons of our post. I'll keep with five of each (like I did previously with our first post). So with out further ado, here are some pros & cons for Suva.

Pros:

1. Phenomenal Sea Life. The reefs are amazing here! So much life and diversity. I feel places I have snorkeled here, I have seen more than I did on dives I did in the Florida Keys/off the California coastline. So then, when I do dives here...mind blown! We plan to do the Shark Dive that is touted in all the dive magazines before we go (college roommate....kindly waiting on you....) and we have also just finished setting up our snorkel with the Manta Rays when they are migrating through trip (fingers crossed for good weather).


Both kids have mastered snorkeling here because it's so easy (right off the beach at most resorts) and as soon as you put your face in the water you see fish. The other night, I was telling Clarissa I had never snorkeled until I was in college and here she is 6 years old and this little super snorkeler. She seemed surprised and perplexed.

2. Beautiful Beaches/Scenery. You get to travel a relatively short distance (compared to a flight from the US) and step into post cards. I have two routes home from the grocery store....when given the chance I prefer the route where I can see water (I heard it helps relieve stress too). Here's the view from my roadside drive....(don't worry I pulled over to take this...but do note: in Suva - sea wall and then water - no beach).


3. Friendly & Happy People. Fijians are some of the most genuinely nice people you will ever meet. I honestly can't think of a rude person in our time here. They are happy too....I recall seeing a photo of a town flooding again during TC Zena right after TC Winston and in the middle of the photo was a man wading through the water, holding his belongings on his head, smiling at the camera.

For one of the women' groups, we did a scavenger hunt around town. We had to find locations based on clues and take a photo of the group there. Here our cab drive took the photo for us at the presidential palace, then we asked second VERY tall military guard if we could take our photo with him too (bonus points for a photo with someone in uniform)....he agreed and is almost smiling! Definitely don't see anything like that happening in New York City...lol!


4. Good for families/kids...in particular, elementary and middle school aged kids. We have been very pleased with the International School Suva. There have been some administration changes while we have been at post, which I feel have gone relatively smoothly. The school is growing, both in new buildings and in size. Clarissa is learning some Fijian and Hindi in school; Mason is learning Chinese (Mandarin). I've been very pleased with size of the school library (and kids can use it during breaks). The school uniforms aren't too shabby either!


After school activities, there are a ton! Mason has done acting/drama club with an Australian/Hollywood actor, tennis lessons, chess club (and is going to get his Jr SCUBA Certification). Clarissa has done swimming, soccer, science club, (and is doing ballet next term...overlaps with swimming this term). There is, of course, RUGBY, martial arts, netball (I'm still not sure what that is), Pacific Island dancing, foreign language courses, cooking classes, and that is just to name a few.


5. Household Help is affordable. We have both a housekeeper and a gardener, both part time. Our housekeeper comes twice a week and also works for two other families part-time. Given the kids are both older and in school, we don't see the need for someone full time to help with them (but a lot of families with young children do have full time help). She does the cleaning, some laundry, ironing and will occasionally help me with some food prep. We asked her to come an extra day to help with Clarissa's birthday party and that was the great too. Given it is summer year round, you need a gardener year round. Ours comes once a week, takes care of the grass, trims the plants, removes debris, plant things (pineapple tops, orchids from the market, etc), will harvest the fruit when ripe (i.e. hard to know when is the right time to cut the bananas down or when to pick the soursop).

Cons:

1. Fiji Time. I think this is the one that drives Richard most nuts...being the middle man between Washington who wants everything done yesterday and the local staff who will get around to fixing that problem "soon". Island time x 3. It is difficult to get things accomplished in a timely or efficient manner. When trying to plan weekends away, it will take multiple emails/phone calls to just get a response/reservation sometimes. Don't expect to get billed on a timely manner either. While we want to be honest and pay our bills, more often than not the pool company won't even send us a bill/will forget their receipt book so we can't pay them for weeks. We receive our internet bill after the please pay by date?!?! When we first arrived we decided to get cable service (since there is a data cap on internet...so no unlimited streaming) and it took close to 6 months before we had that set up!


2. Rain, rain, and more rain. Suva is on the rainy side of the island, even good ole wikipedia describes Suva as a rainforest climate (and uses the word "copious" to describe the amount of rainfall). Annual average is 3,000 mm (118.11 inches). With no real wet or dry season, it rains year round. Cyclone season (November - April) tends to be a little wetter when tropical depressions and cyclones swing by the islands (or stop and linger for a week). With all the rain, your house will be humid and there can be mold/mildew problems (dehumidifiers do help with that though). Forget about storing anything outside though as the rain/humidity will ruin it. Here is a typical forecast check on the weather app. Grant it, the weather app is not always correct and sometimes the rain for the day occurs at night....but you typically have an umbrella handy.


3. Pricey to go anywhere. To go to the above mentioned beautiful beaches, you have to stay at a resort ($$). To get to said beaches you have to drive at least an hour (time and $) or take a boat ($$)/plane ($$$) to get to another island. If you have a bit of island fever and craving some first world luxuries, closest get away is New Zealand...3 hour flight...even with Bula Specials for 4 people it can quickly get $$$$. Hence, we only get out of town about once a month. Oh, and those nice beaches you see on postcards? While they are in Fiji....they are not in Suva. Suva is a port city with mangrove trees and muddy shorelines.

4. Fiji is a Third World Country. When at the resorts, you see a lot of first world accommodations and luxuries, but once you leave the bubble of resort land you quickly realize, that is not how the rest of Fiji lives. When Richard's parents were here (as well as my cousin and her daughter) they all commented how surprised they were with the lack of development and poverty in Fiji. There are a lot of villages without electricity still (especially on remote islands, but even on the main island), though they do supplement with generators/solar power. Just driving around town, I don't think a very large portion of the population has air conditioning in their homes due to the number of open windows you see. In chatting with locals that work in the tourism industry. A good number of them will tell you what village they are from and how often they get to go home (in particular the island resorts' staff has to stay on the island for ~6 days before they can go home for ~3...or so we've been told when chatting on boat rides). That's tough to be away from your family/children that long to make a living.

Being a tree hugger, it drives me nuts on how much trash there is too. Most bigger/nicer resorts will clean up their property (we stayed at a smaller one, where our walks on the beach were all about avoiding stepping on broken glass instead of searching for beautiful shells). I think some of it comes from old practices of using all natural things, drink out of the coconut, finish, the ocean takes it away, it biodegrades. Now, drink out of plastic bottle, finish, ocean takes it to another beach, and it looks ugly. The trash trucks all have big signs about recycling to reduce the amount of trash, but the local recycling program is very tiny (one gas station chain has some recycle bins you can take your recyclables to and a local beer company will reuse their bottles (a truck drives around honking to pick up the bottles, which they will pay you for....but only the one brand of bottles)). For a service project last year, Mason and a friend cleaned up trash. In one hour, between about where I took the photo to the first groyne protruding from the sea wall they picked up 14 bags of trash!



5. Food. I'm going to put food as a con, let me explain. While we love having bananas, pawpaw, and pineapple growing in our yard. Also, I don't think I have ever had pineapples as delicious as the ones here (and we eat 3+ pineapples a week). For the local food, there is not a lot of variety in fruits and vegetables and you somewhat burn out of the same things all the time. To add some variety, you then have to pay ($$) for imported fruits and veggies from Australia and New Zealand, which can be very pricey! For example, a little half pint of fresh blueberries is $19.xxFJD ($10USD) right now (and it is blueberry season in New Zealand!)....sorry, I don't want fresh blueberries that badly. Fijian prawns were overfished, so most prawns sold locally are imported. Fresh fish can be bought hanging roadside (they do swat the flies away), so that's a bit scary and I just don't know how to prepare fish. There is not a lot of ready made anything here. So while healthier, since there are less preservatives, making meals from scratch with the same ingredients week after week....you do get in food ruts. With Richard's work schedule, we also don't know when he will be getting off in the evenings, so that makes it trickier for us to meet somewhere/go out to eat on weeknights....


From the outside looking in, people say "you are in Fiji life should be great!" and don't realize how hard and expensive it can be to live here. I guess if we lived at a resort for the whole tour it would be nice....but we don't.

Monday's Moment: Core Memory?


Thursday, February 16, 2017

Toberua Island Weekend

After returning from New Zealand, I had two more excruciatingly long lovely weeks of quality time with the kids before school started. Luckily, MLK weekend fell during that so Richard had a long weekend to partake in the fun too. Having made multiple drives to and from Nadi over the term break, when I mentioned going to a resort for the weekend Clarissa immediately said she didn't want to go anywhere far that would be a long drive in the car. Given the kids and I had just been to Leleuvia with my in-laws, I wasn't feeling the cold showers so soon. I recalled someone telling us about another nearby island similar to Leleuvia, but nicer after our first trip....so I dug through my old emails, found the link, and we set about contacting them. It took a couple days of emails and phone calls to get everything lined up. Given we were "locals", our boat transfer to the Toberua Island had to coordinate with another guest's arrival/departure.

On Saturday, we had to be at the boat landing at 9am. Given we had no clue where it was (and google maps was no help), we had our driver contact pick us up (which was a good thing....we would have totally missed the "landing"....it was a bus stop on the river edge that had two steps going down to the water). The boat ride was quicker than heading out to Leleuvia, about 15 minutes down a river and another 15 minutes across open water to the island. It was a bit overcast when we arrived...but still beautiful!


We got checked into our bure. We had our own private bathroom and the back wall completely opened up (I'll show you in a video in a bit!). The lovely view out the back....with the traditional hammock by the water.....


The kids were super excited about the pool....so they wanted to swim immediately....so I piddled around the island with the camera while Richard kept an eye on them......note Richard "watching" under the poolside bure.


You can also see in the above photo the tree that lost it's fronds to TC Winston.....
Below, the trail to the boat landing.....


My, what pretty prop roots you have there.....oops....is my inner botanist showing again?


I have a thing for palm tree shadows....they are almost more interesting to photograph than the trees sometimes.....


School of Diamondscale Mullet, Liza vaigiensis....the water is so clear you can see their perfect shadows below them.


The jellyfish I saved that had washed up at low tide....this is it undulating away...


Back at the pool....sigh...tweens and their face making!


Super sweet smile....


Toberua Island offered several excursions per day. Given we were coming from Suva....we just wanted to chillax on the island...something we can't do at home, but I can see where some of the excursions would be enjoyable for someone spending a week at the resort. One that did peak my interest was a trip to Bird Island. It is a uninhabited island that several species of sea birds nest on, including the red-footed booby. Since my marine biology days, I have wanted to see the blue-footed booby....but a red-footed booby would do in the mean time....sigh but no one wanted to go with me...We catch did a frigate bird circling overheard.


Modeling the hat she stole from daddy....


So after swimming, we had lunch. We then headed out to go snorkeling. We had decided to wait till after lunch to snorkel (there are set meal times), as we did not bring a watch and didn't want to end up having to rush back (and the kids really wanted to get in the pool...which we have one at home?!?!). It was now low tide, so we had to kayak out to small dock, tie up the kayaks, and then drop in right on top of the reef. The resort has some floats marking the reef and we had to paddle outside of them so as not to damage the reef with our oars. 


Don't mind the giant black menacing clouds coming towards us.....


As you saw a few weeks back.....the family that snorkels together, gets stung by cnidarians together! Back in my marine bio days, we learned that cnidarians (jellyfish, corals, etc...your stinging cell organisms) will synchronize spawning around light and water temperature conditions....so a full moon in the middle of summer....prime spawning time.....so the water was full of little baby stinging critters....(and lots of grown-up jellyfish like the above one I "saved"). There was also a ton of fishes, everywhere we looked! The most adorable fish must have thought Richard was a Hollywood movie scout and was trying to get a part in the next Finding Nemo/Dory series movie.....I think it might be a Golden trevally (Gnathanodon speciosus) which will commonly swim with groupers and other big fish (so in all likelihood, it thought Richard was a grouper if I'm not doing any personification). It is just a super tiny juvenile!!


So between the constant stinging and the occasional boom of thunder from the clouds from over the mainland heading towards us....we didn't end up snorkeling all that long. We paddled back to shore and big drops of rain started falling as got out of the kayaks. So we headed back to our bure and got showered and dried off. It ended up raining pretty much the rest of the afternoon and evening. Richard and I had scheduled massages so that helped to pass the time. We headed up towards the bar area and played some pool, table tennis and board games. It was real nice in that each bure had an umbrella outside it's door to use, so we didn't get soaked again. The kids were served an early dinner. Mason opted to then hang out in the bure after dinner and Clarissa joined us at our table (and helped herself to a second dinner off my plate...lol). That Saturday night happened to be a barbecue meal....Richard said it was the best tenderloin he has had since we've been in Fiji...it was tasty! We went to sleep listening to the sound of rain coming down and the ocean. The next morning....well you will have to watch the movie!


I think that was the best feature of the bure....the open doors let in the best breeze (the fear of sea kraits crawling in while we were sleeping and stepping on one if we had to get up was the only reason we closed them at night). We were off to a much better start the second day! We attempted snorkeling again, but the stinging cnidarians were out in full force and the kids lasted about 5 minutes. So Richard snorkeled a while and I took the kids to the pool. Next we tried our hand at another sport.....


No, not fishing silly! Kite flying!! They tied the kite string to fishing line. The breeze is so strong, it carries the kite WAY up high (see the tiny speck at the top of the picture.....this was after I made them bring it down so I could get the kids and the kite in the same shot). Seriously...one of the most ingenious ideas ever!!


Patiently waiting for her turn with the kite again while sitting on a tree stump.....


After lunch it was low tide again, so more mandatory fun....time to circumnavigate the island! We loaded up on the sunscreen, but all did managed to get a little pink.....first, let's meet Mr. Crab on a mangrove seed.


Clarissa loves picking unsuspecting sea cucumbers and watching them squirt water in self defense....


The previously mentioned Bird island in the distance, Two Tree island closer to us. When chatting with the property manager, she said if we were standing near Two Tree island we would be able to see Leleuvia Island.


One of many sea stars she picked up.


Big brother getting "revenge" on his little sister by not saving her when a giant clam pops up and tries to gobble her up.


Helping the black sponges tidy up by washing all the sediment off....


After our island circumnavigation, we cooled off in the pool and then showered (I forgot to bring aloe with me...oops). We then found a tern egg on the end of the dock. We noticed every time we walked out there, a tern would circle and squawk at us. It was probably our second or third trip out there we finally noticed the lone egg.


Our second day had the most beautiful sunset! The sky turned so many colors in every direction!




Recall, I even showed you the same sunset the other day with so many shades of pink. One criteria of the local rate on Toberua is a two night minimum. So thankfully, our second day there was no rain and it was immensely more enjoyable. After dinner, there was some cloud cover but it was relatively dark and I tried my hand at my first star photography....not the best....but I kept having clouds move in. If you click to enlarge the image, you will see Orion's belt at the top and a group of stars in the middle. I did get a shot of Mars (orange dot), but not many stars in that one...figured I'd go ahead and post the "bad" star photo so when I get a real good one it will really wow you all!


The next morning was nice and sunny again. The kids decided to completely pass on snorkeling. I headed out since Richard had gotten some time the prior day. I beelined to the floating dock (it was high tide so I didn't have to paddle out). As soon as I passed the dock, I saw two SQUID swim by! I was so excited....I have been a marine biologist for many years and those were the first squid I had ever seen in the wild. I'm bummed that I didn't get it on the GoPro (there must have been a power surge that first stormy night, our charger got fried so we could not charge any of our devices the rest of the trip). The squid I saw were Bigfin Reef Squid (Sepioteuthis lessoniana)...I looked them up as soon as I got home! Richard had commented that the blue sea stars seemed exceptionally large, so while I was out snorkeling I dove down and field measured with my hand. One arm of the biggest one I saw was the size of my hand (so 7 in/18cm), so the whole sea star would have been over a foot (or close to 40 cm) in size.....that is big compared to the other ones we have seen!! By the time I got back, the kids were already showering. We cleaned up and packed up. We were headed back on the boat making a supply/linen run before lunch. The kids had a bit of time to do some more 'kite fishing' as we called it.



The staff brought out some day old bread to feed some fish as they loaded our luggage. The fish loved it! They also took our photo (and sent it to us with a thank you for visiting email, which was really sweet)....Clarissa couldn't be bothered to smile for a photo, she was busy feeding fish. In usual Fijian style, they sang 'Isa Lei' (the farewell song) as we left.


It was a fun relaxing MLK/last hurrah before the new school year weekend! The breeze thru the bure was wonderful during the day, but at night when we closed the sliding wall to keep sea kraits out it got a little too warm for Richard. So if we come back it will be during the winter (not near in a full moon, so hopefully nothing stinging will be spawning).

Current island tally: 1 Toberua Island visited, 326 Fijian Islands remaining